gregorykemp

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Seoul, Korea Apr 2009

What’s been going on lately? Spring has arrived in Vienna. I’ve recovered from a broken ankle. And a previously unrealized perk of being a stay-at-home loser was just discovered. That is, I was able to tag along with the Attaché on a work-trip. The Attaché was a late fill-in for a one day meeting in Seoul, some brainy nuclear thing going on, and I followed. I’ve never got to tag along on a work trip, unless you count the trip here to Austria, of course. That would have been pretty bad if I didn’t come with her to Austria. But truthfully, the Attaché just doesn’t get work-related travel, so I never get the opportunity to go. You might think it sounds like a drag, flying 12 hours for three days in Seoul, but I’ve never been to Korea, and that’s motivation enough. Remember, my measure of success in life is how many countries you can brag about visiting. After checking my to-do list and seeing blank pages until the end of May, I thought I could manage the time off from the house work. Spring cleaning can wait until summer, I say!

My impression of Seoul: A very good Asian experience. Like Tokyo (which I saw during my Navy diving days), Seoul makes you think you’re in some exotic land, but it’s about as western friendly as a place can get. Food is safe. Streets are clean. There is no visible poverty. Transportation services are on time. They don’t have street peddling or that crazy price bartering thing that so many countries have. The only hardship in Seoul is that the signs are hard to read and they often serve smelly fish as a side dish. But that’s magic of the quasi-exotic destination, it looks just different enough to make you think you’re a daring traveler, but it’s not daring at all. Throw in a few palaces with some funny roofs and put Jackie Chan on every street corner, and you’ve done it, you’ve fooled yourself into thinking you’re in another world.

I really like Seoul for this exact reason. I don’t like traveling to places where poverty is everywhere. I don’t like to spend half my vacation sitting on the toilet. But I do like to see different things. I like to try foods that are different, but not so different that I don’t immediately recognize it as food. Koreans eat rice that looks like rice, meat that looks like meat. They eat vegetables also. Steamed veggies. Sautéed veggies. Excluding that stinky fish stuff they put to the side (anchovies maybe), the most exotic thing we found was kimchi, a dish that might not suit every westerner. It’s pickled vegetables (usually cabbage) with spices, served cold. Doesn’t sound delightful, but at least it’s stuff I’ve heard of. It’s not bat testicles or worm dung like they eat in some countries.

In additional to seeing Seoul, we took a tour of the DMZ, or demilitarized zone, the border between North and South Korea.
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  • Our tour guide on our way to the DMZ.

    Our tour guide on our way to the DMZ.

  • Flattering shot of me, eh? I'm on a bus heading to the DMZ, about 45 minutes north of Seoul. Jet lag was killing me. If I sat still for less than a millisecond I went into immediate REM. I can't really tell you what's between Seoul and the DMZ. I was dreaming about monkeys in tuxedos. (It's a recurring dream of mine.)

    Flattering shot of me, eh? I'm on a bus heading to the DMZ, about 45 minutes north of Seoul. Jet lag was killing me. If I sat still for less than a millisecond I went into immediate REM. I can't really tell you what's between Seoul and the DMZ. I was dreaming about monkeys in tuxedos. (It's a recurring dream of mine.)

  • Here's the fence on the South Korean side. The border between North and South Korea is the most heavily armed in the world. There is a 4km buffer zone between the countries, full of mines. Our tour guide told us that no one has been in this zone for 50 years, and the wildlife is thriving. Many rare and endangered birds make home there. Then they step on a mine and explode.

    Here's the fence on the South Korean side. The border between North and South Korea is the most heavily armed in the world. There is a 4km buffer zone between the countries, full of mines. Our tour guide told us that no one has been in this zone for 50 years, and the wildlife is thriving. Many rare and endangered birds make home there. Then they step on a mine and explode.

  • At the DMZ.  I'd make a good soldier, wouldn't I?

    At the DMZ. I'd make a good soldier, wouldn't I?

  • I don't think she looked at the sign.

    I don't think she looked at the sign.

  • This is a lookout point where you can see the North Korean fence. You know what you see? Tell me, please. It was way too hazy.

    This is a lookout point where you can see the North Korean fence. You know what you see? Tell me, please. It was way too hazy.

  • George W. Bush visited the DMZ in 2002 and graffitied a banister.  Honestly - he writes, "May the railroad unite Korean families."

    George W. Bush visited the DMZ in 2002 and graffitied a banister. Honestly - he writes, "May the railroad unite Korean families."

  • As part of our DMZ tour, we entered what is known as the Third Tunnel. Back in the 70s and 80s, the North Koreans dug secret tunnels 150 feet under the DMZ, supposedly to support an planned invasion into the south. The tunnels were discovered and the invasion, of course, never happened.  For whatever reason, the third tunnel was selected as the tourist tunnel and you can pay to walk down an insanely steep, dark, wet, tunnel to a steel dead-end barrier, banging your head the whole way. When you get to the dead-end barrier, included in the price is your right to turn around and return back up a steep, dark, wet, tunnel. It's your option home many times you want to bang your head. I did it 3 million times.

    As part of our DMZ tour, we entered what is known as the Third Tunnel. Back in the 70s and 80s, the North Koreans dug secret tunnels 150 feet under the DMZ, supposedly to support an planned invasion into the south. The tunnels were discovered and the invasion, of course, never happened. For whatever reason, the third tunnel was selected as the tourist tunnel and you can pay to walk down an insanely steep, dark, wet, tunnel to a steel dead-end barrier, banging your head the whole way. When you get to the dead-end barrier, included in the price is your right to turn around and return back up a steep, dark, wet, tunnel. It's your option home many times you want to bang your head. I did it 3 million times.

  • After the DMZ, we returned to Seoul.  Asian art is cool, ain't it?

    After the DMZ, we returned to Seoul. Asian art is cool, ain't it?

  • Changing of the guard at Deoksugung. Nice little ceremony.

    Changing of the guard at Deoksugung. Nice little ceremony.

  • At the changing of the guard ceremony.

    At the changing of the guard ceremony.

  • Guard ceremony.

    Guard ceremony.

  • The gardens throughout Seoul were beautiful.  I look at this and realize that gardens have to start somewhere.  Happens to be with little old ladies plucking grass.

    The gardens throughout Seoul were beautiful. I look at this and realize that gardens have to start somewhere. Happens to be with little old ladies plucking grass.

  • Here I am navigating.  Notice the technique: walking AND navigating.  The result is a 3% increase in sightseeing efficiency.  The cost is two bumps to the head and a stubbed toe.

    Here I am navigating. Notice the technique: walking AND navigating. The result is a 3% increase in sightseeing efficiency. The cost is two bumps to the head and a stubbed toe.

  • Another palace. I forget the name but there were a lot of Gs, Ys, and Ks. Notice my use of the peace sign in the photo. That's an Asian thing to do. Part of my blending in.

    Another palace. I forget the name but there were a lot of Gs, Ys, and Ks. Notice my use of the peace sign in the photo. That's an Asian thing to do. Part of my blending in.

  • I bet you didn't know that Koreans do not use chopsticks to eat rice.  They use a spoon. But they use a chopsticks to eat everything else.

    I bet you didn't know that Koreans do not use chopsticks to eat rice. They use a spoon. But they use a chopsticks to eat everything else.

  • After our DMZ tour we returned to Seoul and did a hike up a nearby hill called Inwangsan. Many shamans do shaman things in this quiet area. They chant. They pray. They offer pig heads to the spirits. The Attache and I made the climb. At the very top, was a spectacular view of Seoul. It was a perfect finish to a fun trip. Look closely, that's me sitting on the rock to the left.

    After our DMZ tour we returned to Seoul and did a hike up a nearby hill called Inwangsan. Many shamans do shaman things in this quiet area. They chant. They pray. They offer pig heads to the spirits. The Attache and I made the climb. At the very top, was a spectacular view of Seoul. It was a perfect finish to a fun trip. Look closely, that's me sitting on the rock to the left.

  • From Inwangsan.

    From Inwangsan.

  • On the hike up Inwangsan.

    On the hike up Inwangsan.

  • We used the subway to get around. We only got lost eleven times.

    We used the subway to get around. We only got lost eleven times.

  • I took this photo in the subway covertly.  I thought it was covert, but now that I look at the dude with the cap, I think he as onto me.

    I took this photo in the subway covertly. I thought it was covert, but now that I look at the dude with the cap, I think he as onto me.

  • The Attache took this picture of a public toilet. Notice the flush lever on the ground. Nice.

    The Attache took this picture of a public toilet. Notice the flush lever on the ground. Nice.

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    Here's the fence on the South Korean side. The border between North and South Korea is the most heavily armed in the world. There is a 4km buffer zone between the countries, full of mines. Our tour guide told us that no one has been in this zone for 50 years, and the wildlife is thriving. Many rare and endangered birds make home there. Then they step on a mine and explode.
    At the DMZ.  I'd make a good soldier, wouldn't I?
    I don't think she looked at the sign.